Nova Scotia with Anne of Green Gables
Jamie and I flew into Halifax early in the morning, determined to catch a few waves at Lawrencetown beach. The artic temperature of the water, the red eye flight with a toddler, and the sound machine filling the car from the trunk destined us instead to pass out for hours in the parking lot of the beach. Once awake, I left Jamie and Bronte to the sound machine as I walked Lawrencetown beach. The waves were gentle and small, almost non-existent unless you were willing to paddle further along the coast, and the stones that made up the shoreline were smooth and covered the width of my palm. Lawrencetown already impressed upon us the feeling of a rugged northern landscape: squat trees, inlets from the ocean, tiny islands that held isolated homes, repurposed lobster traps, hexagonal bear boxes, and areas that could only be accessed by boats. Bronte and I sat and had a steamer and latte after our lunch, and once Jamie woke up, we headed into Halifax.
Halifax was such a wonderful town to walk about. We stayed at a cozy hotel, and Bronte could go and show off her pajamas to Aunt Beth and Aunt Anne in the room next door, and she shared nuts with Emma as we got drinks in the adjoining hotel parlor. Our first night we had a Halifax Doner, which Natalie and I blindly devoured, while for others it was a bit….heavy….especially if you were Jamie. Who ordered a large size, which was about the length of her forearm. We frequented Irish pubs (Bronte almost got us kicked out for stealing salt shakers) and enjoyed a rainy walk along the boardwalk. COWs Creamery was the only place I could find Heated Rivalry merchandise, and Bronte got a signed number board book on Nova Scotia from the author, and owner of a local bookstore. The Library was beautiful to walk around, and a quiet escape with views of the bustling shopping road beneath. Megyn, Natalie, and Emma enjoyed live music and breweries on the water, whereas we pushed Bronte’s bed time stopping for late night cookies and milk.
A morning was spent at Peggy’s Cove. We took our time photographing and posing on the dramatic rocks that held the iconic lighthouse, and even managed to get whistled at as we walked to close to the water. Bronte was Hell-bent on getting a lobster roll for lunch, and so was Aunt Beth…
Shopping was so fun at Peggy’s Cove, because small stores were run out of homes that lined the water inlets. Lobster boats would come in with the final haul of the season. At Tom’s Lobster Shack, Jamie had a truffle lobster roll, while others had a Cajun or Classic style lobster roll. A very memorable dinner was at The Bicycle Thief, were we discussed our literary aspirations, particularly those of tiny fairies, assured the waiter we did not vote for our president, and learned the proper way to say “Montreal.” The risotto was a massive hit,
To The Gables!
Our first full day on Prince Edward Island was to fill our cup with Anne Shirley and the woman whose mind was had such an influence on us all. The details and the landscape of Anne of Green Gables Heritage Site brought the story to life. We walked Lover’s Lane, just as Maud Montgomery did, finding coiled ferns and humble streams lining our path.
Many of our days were infused with museums, and it became evident that Maud had her thumbprints on every surface of Prince Edward Island. We got to actually see The Lake of Shining Waters at the Campbell’s homestead, of whom were Maud Montgomery’s aunt and uncle. Other stories were based here, as well as original furniture that has been kept in the family. It was the place where she got married, where Anne Shirley saw her reflection in the bookcase, and endearing quotes from Maud’s mother. This was such a sweet surprise, and a favorite stop on the itinerary, not to mention our walk into the Whispering Lane.
Alas! Nothing compared to the excitement of being at the Montgomery homestead, where Maud grew up, walked the trails to Green Gables, and wrote her beloved stories. While the house is no longer standing, Aunt Anne grounded herself where Maud’s window would’ve been, and where the apple tree still stands. Bronte blew on her first dandelion, and frolicked on the hillside that looked out to the surrounding farmlands. The energy at this place was the best, and encompassed every humble thought I had about the landscape that enraptured this beloved author. Another stop on our list was the house that was Maud’s birthplace. Here, Bronte adorned her new hat and braids, and got to look into the room where Maud’s crib and dolls were. Inside the house we say a replica of her wedding dress, and walking through the swing door that clattered behind us had its own special effects. We learned here about the Anne of Green Gables book translated in Japanese during World War II, and how it is now used as a part of their curriculum.
Lighthouses were another important part of our itinerary, with Aunt Peggy being nose deep in a map to see which ones we would be passing by for that day. Each one had their own beauty, but the tucked away corner of the Cape Tryon Lighthouse took our breath away. Not far from The Lake of Shining Waters, Cape Tyron is accessed on dirt roads through fields of wild flowers. It sits on a cliff side made of tiny caves that birds fly in and out of. We all scattered to take in the moment, and the peaceful nature that took us by surprise.
The home where we stayed was so sweet and everything we could ask for, being also in the heart of Cavendish. Bronte would do races in the front yard, push her toys in the swing, and everyone would read on porches, sun rooms, or circling the fire pit. Some nights we were cooking, cracking open oysters, and dining late into the evening, while others we sat around the fire and drank the liquid of the Gods. The best nights were our self inflicted Anne of Green Gables trivia nights, were we split into two teams: “Hey Carrots!” and “Gay with an A.” Gay with an A was carried on the shoulders of Aunt Anne (we later discussed calling our team Gay with an Anne), the occasional assistance of Aunt Beth, and the rare dunk by Jamie (I was completely useless). Hey Carrots was carried by Aunt Jo, with the assist of Megyn and Emma, and the rare dunk by Aunt Peggy (when she had not fallen asleep, sitting up, with a smile on her face). Natalie was our fair Judge and Game Warden.
At the nearby Cavendish Beach, bald eagles would cluster and fly overhead, and most nights we went to see them. It was just a magical place, enough said.
We took day trips to Dalvay, ate at the infamous Dalvay by the Sea, spent a morning shopping the artwork of Victoria, and walked the churches and universities of Charlottetown. It was so quiet, charming, and the small fishing towns brought so much color to the green rolling hills that stretched out beyond them.
