Jamie and Kathy Came to Eden: Isla Floreana
Galapagos Islands, Floreana
Floreana Island has, arguably, the most interesting human history of all of the Galapagos Islands and it was the home to the first Galapagos resident. We gained incredible knowledge while on the cruise due to the naturalists, Cathy, Viviana and Marcela, that took us around the islands. They were adorable, to begin with, and hysterical. They spoke to the animals, and they recognized every distant sound that an unseen bird would make. They were your main connection to the islands, the very blood flow that transported the nutrients that the islands had to offer. They spoke of Darwin incredulously, with utmost respect that what he discovered in just three weeks of being on the islands showed the magnitude of his instincts. He foretold many things that would later become facts - such as how introducing new species would impact the delicate balance and rareness that the Galapagos islands provided its own creatures. They also spoke of the scandal of the Galapagos Affair - where two people came to the islands to escape civilization and discover their “Eden”, and were followed by a self-proclaimed Baroness, and a man with a pregnant wife. From that, there are deaths still unexplained, scandal, and philosophies that arose from such a strange story.
I am not surprised as to why people were attracted to this remote island. It is one of the older ones, and so the landscape is more alive and varying than Isabela. One woman who lived on the island said that the island itself had whispers, and a tumultuous history of the humans that came, left, or died there. It was an unforgiving landscape of the densest trees and mangroves that I have ever seen, and yet it intrigued me beyond measure. The dark hills hid many, I am sure, amazing animals, while below where I stood a group of flamingos tended to their nest.
Greatest Moment: The number one reason why purchasing a cruise is the best way to see the islands in order to actually access remote areas of uninhibited nature. The Galapagos is an inspiring conservation project in itself, as it limits foot traffic on many of the islands. Our cruise was one of a few that were allowed on islands such as Floreana, and when we left, no boat would be allowed to go there until the islands themselves recovered. Everything is so regulated - it’s amazing! But you felt the awe that much more, being the only group on such an old island, full of history. We got to walk inland, passing a massive flamingo lagoon to another beach with resting sting rays that moved in the shallow water. This was incredible. The thick, coarse brush looked cold and uninviting, and yet you learn how dead-looking bark is actually the tree’s survival mechanism to retain moisture and block the sun. And the landscape filled your sight with incredible contrast - red lagoons, green crystal sand, blue waters, and black lava mounds. And just off shore we snorkeled with the gigantic sea turtles, as they munched unaffected by us eager impostors.
Worst Moment: We saw the infamous Post Office, that was established on Floreana well before Ecuador was even a country. The Galapagos islands were a place of refuge for pirates, lost explorers, and whalers. It was a place off the map that one could hide away, but also saved many by providing many resources. Tortoises were discovered to last months without food and water, and were hunted ruthlessly with no regulation. While populations are growing on islands currently, tortoises were at the time transported by the thousands onto ships to help feed sailors for many months on board. On Floreana there are none, and you learned how many people used to live on these islands, including the infamous Galapagos Affair. These people who lived here introduced many cattle and wild dogs that began to deplete local resources and affect many of the endemic animals.
Lesson Learned: The islands are home to many migrant birds. There are birds such as the flamingos, boobies, and albatrosses. Each island has such a distinct landscape, due to its gradual movement along the tectonic plate and erosion, that provides incredible places for nesting. Some birds and animals breed no where else in the world, though they travel for years away from the islands, such as the Galapagos Flamingos and the Albatrosses.
Cultural Insight: Learning that the Galapagos is an extremely expensive place to visit, does not mean one should not invest in it. Upon entering the islands, you pay an entrance fee. While on the islands, commerce also supports the conservation efforts. There are no plastic bottles on the islands, and while tourism is a large part of what supports the islands, we found that the cruises are also supporting 30% of the income for the projects at hand. While it literally feels like you are bleeding money, it is all going towards protecting the islands. The creatures are loved and respected by the locals, and kids grow up learning how to protect the wild. They also make the prices very high to reduce the amount of travelers - because if everyone could afford to go, the human impact would overwhelm the delicate environment - which is delicate.
