The Valley Remains
Our first adventure to Death Valley left us yearning to see more, and as Jamie’s foot fracture prevented us from snowboarding in Tahoe, we took to Death Valley a second time to see what we missed. This time with friends.
Our cousins, Meredith and Tyler, recently moved out here and have become renegade hooligans in the Wild West — basically everything we hoped they would be. And so we sought adventure in the vast desert, with another friend, Anastasiya. Camping at Panamint Springs, we did two days in Death Valley. The first, we hiked along the rim and within the crater of Ubehebe, a large volcanic crater 600 feet deep and half a mile across.
The wind was intense that day, reminding me of the harsh weather that plagues this endless valley. Flash floods that have in the past wiped out mining towns, or summers that reach degrees hotter than anywhere else in the world. Short, rough bushes speckle the landscape in an unforgiving attitude, and the hillsides have somber hues of volcanic deposits rich in iron oxides and chlorite compounds. At the top of the crater we sat, and the wind pushed against us as if it were a child pulling at our arm — begging us to see something. Or everything.
We went to Rhoylite Ghost Town, driving through the mud canyon. This ghost town was founded in 1904 and dead by 1916 after its mine shut down. Ghost Towns are incredible to me — they tell of the rise and fall of communities and cultures, and are playgrounds for the imagination. This one in particular had art installations that have become its modern addition.
Before our first night at the campsite we drove through a sand storm. The wind picked up, and the Mesquite Sand Dunes created a sheet so dense we could only see the car in front of us. The sun turned to pink and the sky to grey. We sought refuge in the Mosaic Canyon where Jamie, walking impaired by her boot, had to slide down the smooth surfaces of stone. By campfire we cooked sausage, potatoes, and sauerkraut — Tyler loved it, and Anastasiya was inspired.
Our second day began at Badwater Basin. Boo got to follow us in her wheeled cart as we walked out onto the salt flats. I got to sit in her cart with her when the road got too bumpy, and we cuddled together at the lowest point in the United States (282 ft below sea level). Stretching our legs, we did the short hike afterwards to Natural Bridge before stopping at the Artist’s Palette.
The Artist’s Palette was better than expected - the road winded through the mineral rich landscape and there were blues, purples, and greens that layered in the soil at almost every turn.
On our way back to the campsite we stopped at Mesquite Sand Dunes for sunset. The shadows along the sand mounds were regal. Leaving the handicaps behind - Boo and Jamie - the rest of us rolled down some hills and raced up others. I do believe that I won the race against Tyler, but it truly was too close to call. I guess it depends on who you talk to! But that evening topped off all others: Tyler and Meredith made macaroni and cheese, as well as BBQ chicken. Apparently you are supposed to eat them together, which in my opinion is blasphemous, but it sure was delicious. Like a pot of gold, in my belly. Afterwards we had cupcakes and booshy s’mores — s’mores with artisan chocolates.
One day we will have a jeep, and see more of the landscape’s beautiful phenomenons, because Death Valley is a place you just need to see over and over again. It reminds me how small I am, and how fleeting life is — and yet the Valley will remain, always.
