To Know Norohna

Fernando De Noronha, Brazil

It took 26 hours for us to fly from San Francisco to where Scott and Gabi were married. It was a never ending flight, and daunting enough to make us plan an adventure within an adventure before we had to make the trip back. We left Belo Horizonte with a samba beat in our feet, hearts full, and bellies full of cheesy bread and guarana drinks. Our next stop was the island Fernando del Noronha.

This was an island that Gabi had told us about before, and an island every Brazilian knows, and seems to dream of. Everyone we spoke to about it fluttered their eyes and heaved their chests, as if to speak about it was to speak of sparkling, stunning, distant sunsets. We were anxious to get there, and quite frankly, were not prepared for what awaited us.

We landed on one of the two incoming flights that go to the island every day. Only a certain amount of people are admitted onto the island per day, as it is a protected island. Stepping into the warmth and brilliant sun, we saw wilderness surrounding the airport. Pico Mountain stood as a flagstaff in the distance, and for the remainder of the trip, this iconic mountain was the way to orient yourself on the island. There was one road that went from one end of the island to the other, and tiny neighborhoods lined along side it. Other than that, the island was beach after beach, trails to tide pools, and walks along the coastline. Once crossing the line into the national reservation, you were met with lizards, red footed boobies, frigate birds, and hundreds of scuttling crabs along the shore.

We were taken aback at first at the absolute lack of transport options that we could utilize, and learned fast that you cannot rely on the bus system. Once we settled on hitch hiking as a method of getting around, we then discovered that you go to Fernando del Noronha to beach hop. To play, relax, swim, snorkel, and drink Caipirinhia under some shade. It was hard for us to settle with such a simple adventure - but when we did, it infused us with its beauty.

There were a total of three people on the island that we could converse English with, without using google translate as a mediator. But we discovered the universal language of smiles, laughter, large arm movements, “California”, and the power of agreement. Kindness gets you anywhere, and sometimes feeds you. Most notably, we were offered ice cream cubes by a group of elderly men who drove around without shirts and large shade hats. We often ended our days at Praia da Cachorro, where we watched a family begin their day after the heat passed, building bamboo platforms next to their cement home, gathering coconuts for the several children running around with their puppies and chickens.

It was an island to dream about, that was certain, but it was not an island that made it easy for just anyone. We worked hard for the luxury of being there, but I won’t ever forget the dramatic tropical cliff sides, the thin swaying palm trees, the South American wildlife, and the sunsets that demanded quiet reflection and gave the chance for us to take a step back.